Part 1 -
Diamond Peak.
Date: August 5, 2017.
Objectives:
Donaldson Peak 12,023. 8th highest peak in Idaho.
Mount Church 12,220+. 3rd highest peak in Idaho.
Stats:
Strava track. 9.5 miles and 5,700ft of gain in 9:30 round trip.
Partners: Josh S.
Gear notes: Helmet required for the headwall.
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| Church and Donaldson, front and center. |
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| Campground with the LRR in the background. |
After climbing Diamond Peak, we headed over to the Mackay reservoir to set up camp. Then we got way too much fantastic food at Mary Lou's. Then we hung out in camp and had some celebration beers while the wind blew. We got to bed at a decent hour and I was putting drool on my pillow in no time. Then we had late night visitors roll into the neighboring camp sites sometime around midnight. They were obviously pretty jacked to be there. Either that, or they had no concept of other people. Headlights, car horns, slamming doors and yelling kids walking right through our camp had us up late enough that we both had considered just getting up and leaving to start the climb. Josh suggested we push back the wake up time one hour to try to get a bit more sleep. That was a good call and we finally got a couple hours of sleep. We were up at 6am and did our best to not be too quiet while we packed up.
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| Starting the hike. |
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| Josh heading up the canyon. |
We were a bit sleep deprived but that did not impact our motivation. Soon we were at the end of the road and on the trail up the north fork of Jones Creek. Lots of cairns kept us on track. We took a short break at the top of the canyon before we began the scree slog to the small pond that sits below the headwall.
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| Nearing the pond. |
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| Pond below the headwall. |
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| Josh starting up the headwall |
This headwall might be my least favorite place. Every rock is loose and just waiting to crush you or your buddy. Let me just say that I'm glad I don't have a reason to go though it again.
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| Josh on the summit of Donaldson. |
We veered up and to climbers right of what would be considered the normal route, more or less up the west face of Donaldson. We were greeted by another hazy view and Diamond was not visible. Interesting side note: so far, Donaldson Peak is the only 12er I've summeted twice.
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| Church from Donaldson. |
From this angle, Church looks intimidating to say the least. I tried to keep my eyes down and my head in the game.
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| Summit of Donaldson. |
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| Climbers log. |
We had a snack and rested for a minute, but we knew we had to get going.
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| Looking southeast. |
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| Josh on Donaldson. |
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| Donaldson x2. |
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| Josh heading up the ridge to Church. |
Crossing the saddle wasn't bad but we knew the real obstacles were waiting for us up higher.
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| Looking north toward Borah. |
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| Upper ridge. |
There were a few sections of the climb that had our full attention. We moved smoothly and with purpose across the exposed ridge and onto the true summit.
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| Climbers log. |
I'd been trying to think of something clever to say or do if I ever finished the 12ers but July had been a tough month. I was tired. Fatigue was setting in and overuse injuries were creeping up. I was just happy I finally made it. I might have fought back a tear or two.
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| Looking west. No view of the Pioneer mountains today. |
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| 9 of 9 and a legit smile. |
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| Looking back on the ridge. Donaldson in the background. |
We both agreed; that ridge is gnarly but the headwall was worse.
Video on the summit of Church
We left the summit and made good time down the ridge. It didn't seem as bad as it did on the way up.
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| Taking a break on descent. Donaldson in the background. |
Once past the ridge, we were faced with the dreaded descent of the headwall. I started us down a gully marked by a huge cairn that I thought was the entrance to the normal route, but we quickly found ourselves doing exploratory surgery, cutting into places that we shouldn't have been as we tried to find a way out of the cliffy class 4 crap. The echo of rockfall was like the sound of shackles as it tried to imprison us. Josh had the right idea; climb up to get out, but the last thing my legs wanted to do was more vert. We climbed some class 4 ribs to get out of the scree chutes and made our way back to the saddle. Eventually we found the correct exit gully. The prison break was on and we slid our way back to the pond. Our sentence was up, we were free men again. Even though I turned out to be a repeat offender, I swore I'd never go back again.
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| Donaldson Peak. |
My feet were pretty swollen and sore by the time we got down to the lower scree field. The day was hot and we were looking forward to whatever shade waited for us down in the canyon.
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| Mouth of the canyon. |
We cut the breaks and bombed down to the car. Now it was official, I was finished with the 12'ers. The way I look at it, you only get to celebrate the first time you finish the 12'ers once.
Happy trails!
