Mount Shuksan

Date: July 14-15, 2022.

Objective:  Mount Shuksan 9,131'.

Stats: Approx 18 miles and 8,000ft gain round trip.  13hr summit day.  Strava.

Partners: Roy.

Roy and I set out for the Cascades yet again, this time with our sites set on the North Cascades National Park.  We chose Mount Shuksan simply based on aesthetic value.  Shuksan just "looked awesome".  After hammering out the logistical side of things on the drive over, all we needed to do was decide on the route.  We knew we would be approaching via the Sulphide Glacier which would put us on either the SE Rib 5th class rock route, or climbing the SE Gully which could be a mix of snow and ice and possible class 4 rock.

Interestingly enough, after a very dry winter, the mountains were now buried in late spring snowfall.  We knew there had been a few recent ascents but still had some concerns about the ridge being snow free enough to climb and bringing enough of the right gear for it.

We started the hike to bivy at darn near 1100 and found ourselves sweltering in the low elevation sun on snow covered and exposed slopes.  We took our time taking breaks in the precious little shade and enjoyed the views of Mount Baker.  After getting settled in camp we realized that the sunset was going to spectacular.  The only problem with that was we wouldn't be up to see it.  We hit the sack pretty early for an 0100 wake up.  We wanted to get across the low elevation glacier before the heat of the day.  We also wanted to get ahead of any potential traffic jams on the route.  

Trailhead.

Trailhead.

Mount Baker aka Komo Kulshan.

View from camp.

The temps were fairly warm when we set out from the tent at 0200.  We knew the snow depth was sufficient to bridge most crevasses but still chose to rope up before where we thought the actual glacier began.  We hit the jackpot with an amazing sunrise.

Sunrise on the Sulphide Glacier.

Shuksan summit pyramid at sunrise.

Sunrise.

Roy at a break.

Nearing the summit pyramid.

It was pretty cruiser up to the base of the SE Rib and the route looked clear.  I had a dicey moment on a steep and icy slope because I hadn't put my ice ax in self belay soon enough.  Time to wake up!!!  After gaining the notch, we had to reconfigure the rope from two person glacier travel to technical rock, take the crampons off and stow ice axes for several pitches of rock.

The SE Rib started out a bit "slabby" but the rock was bomber solid.  Roy led and cruised up pitch after pitch.  I think we did 3 and half 60m rope lengths to gain the summit.  Super fun, super sunny and a super solid partner made it almost go by too quick.  We gained the summit and Roy dug out the register and signed us in.  We only spent about 5 minutes on top because we had at least two parties behind us and the most difficult and dangerous part yet to come.  

Our route was up the right hand ridge and down through the gully in the center.

Roy leaving the first belay.

At a belay.

Looking down the SE Rib.

Roy flaking the rope.

Last pitch to the summit.

Summit.

Baker in the distance.

First rappel.

Rappelling.

We down climbed on belay to the first rappel station.  From there, Roy led the rappels thought the Gully.  There was some zig-zagging from one side to the other and we really took our time to triple check everything.  Eventually we got to a spot very low in the gully that did not have a rap station and Roy ended up making a couple, leaving some slings and rap rings behind.  I'm sure the party behind us appreciated that.

Once we were to a spot that we could hop back on the glacier, we reconfigured the rope back to two person glacier travel and cruised.  The way back to the tent seemed a heck of a lot longer than the way up.  Packing up was brutal in the heat, but the only way out is though and we still had some appreciable ground to cover.

The mosquitoes were out of control back down in the trees.  We had been watching some low clouds come in from the west all day and by now there was a light rain.  It kept the blood suckers at bay for the time being.  

We climb for the experience.  We climb for the views.  Getting a summit is awesome, but getting back to the car is what it's all about.  Ripping the boots off and busting out the flip flops, potato chips and beer; not necessarily in that order though.

Almost back to camp.

Heading back to the car.