Sunday, July 19, 2020

Mount Idaho

Date: July 19, 2020.

Objective: Mount Idaho - 12,065'.

Partners: Mark and Tory.

Stats: 10 miles and 5,500' gain.  Class 3.  Strava.

Notes:  Strava stats a little inflated due to backtracking.  Forgot to bring some work gloves for scrambling on the sharp rocks.

Having a day off between peaks was nice so the 04:00 wake up call didn't feel too bad.  We did Breitenbach a couple days before and I felt fairly ready for another big day.  We hit the start button at about 05:30; a nice early and cool start.  Seriously, tons of mosquitoes though.  I realized I forgot my sunglasses in my duffle bag so I had to double back to the rig, then met up the Jones's farther up the canyon.  I won't speak for Mark and Tory, but I was getting stoked to tag their final 12er.


The shadow to the Lost River Range on the valley floor.

Hiking the shoulder of point 11,060.

Mark on the shoulder.


The Elkhorn Creek approach is pretty chill, but it is steep until you get up into the trees.  From there we were able to follow cairns and our noses to the end of the creek.  I remembered/thought we were heading further up the canyon, closer to the base of the west face of the peak but we ended up on the shoulder of the prominent point on the west ridge.  This area was pretty steep with some rock outcrops and big trees to move around.  Once on top of the shoulder and heading toward the west ridge, we had a clear view of the peak.  Mount Idaho appears to be a jumbled mess because it is just that.  The west face is a maze of scree chutes and rock ledges.  But for now we still had a bit of easy ground to cover.  The view of Borah from the saddle was as awesome as I remember from my last trip here, almost 8 years ago to the day.

Traversing to the saddle.

West ridge and west face of Mount Idaho.

Mount Borah and Sacagawea.


The "Towers" section was fun and there was more of a braided trail than I remembered and provided a nice warm up scramble before starting up the face.  From the Towers, it's about a half mile to the base of the face.  We stopped there for a good break and put our brain buckets on for the rest of the climb.  The scrambling was straight forward and fun, but I forgot to bring a pair of gloves.  The quartzite rock is pretty sharp.

Towers.

Towers.

Base of the west face.


The maze kind of goes like this:  Climb up the initial rocks at the base of the face and that takes you to a prominent bench.  At this bench, veer climbers right and follow the ramp that traverses out onto the face.  You will find yourself about 600 vertical feet from the top, but don't get antsy, this is the most difficult section.  We climbed across a series of gullies and up a few ledges, still moving out to the right a bit.  We had to cross one very steep gully that still held snow.  Once above the last of the chutes and ledges there is a wide open scree slope.  We stuck to the left side and hugged the stable rocks until we topped out on the summit ridge, just to the right of the true summit.  The traverse along the right to climbers left was pretty cool; a little airy and probably the best part of the climb for me.

West face.

Low on the face.

Gaining the ramp.

Traversing out onto the face.

Scree gully to the summit ridge.

Climbing a rib on the west face.

Final stretch to the summit ridge.

The true summit.

Merrian Lake.

Mt. Idaho, aka Elkhorn Peak.

Mark and Tory approaching the summit.



Mount Borah.

Looking south over the crest of the LRR.

9 of 9 on the 12ers!


It was pretty rad getting to be with Mark and Tory as they reached the top of their final 12er.  They agreed that they saved the best for last.  We were pretty sure we could see climbers on Borah.  The summit of Mount Idaho is a fantastic perch, but there was still work to be done.

We got a little cattywampus while descending the face, but there is no defined route.  It's simply a matter of getting down and not getting swept off the face by the scree.  We kept moving down and to the right and ended up back at the snow gully where the steps we had kicked earlier should have provided a nice boot path, but the snow was super soft and slushy.  Oh well, just get on and off it as quick as you can!

Once past that, we regained the ramp that leads back to the ridge and back to the base of the face.  We picked our way back to the saddle where we discussed going down the wide open slope that leads straight down into the canyon, but we decided to retrace our steps to the shoulder of point 11.060.  From there we dropped off to the right a bit and made some good time zipping down the scree, and eventually ended up right at the top of the creek.

The shade of the trees was quite welcome and we could feel the heat of the day really taking hold.  We dug in a gutted out the descent with a stop or two to cool off in the creek.

12ers are better with friends, no doubt about that.

Ah, I remember when I finished the 12ers!  I expected enlightenment and all I got were sore feet.  The elation lasted about 2 days.

I hope their revelry lasts a little longer.



Friday, July 17, 2020

Mount Breitenbach

Date: July 17, 2020.

Objective: Mount Breitenbach - 12,140.

Partners: Mark and Tory.

Stats: 9 miles with 5,200' gain.  Class 2.  Strava.

Mark and Tory had two 12ers left so the objective was simple; finish the 12ers.  A 7am start was fairly manageable but we knew the day would be long and we were expecting wind.  We weren't expecting the mosquitoes that bombarded us on the way up Pete Creek.  My overall recollection from my previous climb was that going up Pete Creek was "better" than the last time.

Looking up Pete Creek.

Top of the canyon, start of the scree.

Looking up the upper canyon, toward the south face.  Mark Jones for scale.


Once out of the creek and onto the scree, the route is fairly straight forward.  We climbed though the cliff band where the waterfall is, just a shade above 10,000ft.  Climbing this was quick and easy class 3 and shorter, but I have a feeling that if one were to skirt around the longer way to climbers left, it would still be class 2.  We aimed for the saddle at 11,400 which would be the southeast ridge that leads to the false summit.  It was here that the wind started to kick up.  The climb to the false summit is steep, but I call it class 2.

Looking down the scree field.

Cliff band.

Waterfall.

Class 3 near the waterfall.

Looking south across the scree, heading toward the saddle at 11,400.


From the false summit, it's a little over a mile round trip - out-and-back- to the true summit on a fun ridge walk that is narrow at times but never very exposed.  There was some easy scrambling here, but the consensus was it's class 2.8, if that's a thing.

Saddle at 11,400.

False summit on the left, true summit on the far right.

East side of the LRR.

Enjoying the view at the saddle.

Heading toward the false summit.

True summit on the right.

Fossils on the summit ridge.

Summit ridge.


Getting to the summit of Breitenbach is quite the grind, and mental endurance is a good thing to have.  Strong legs help too.  The wind was really picking up at this point, but there were no threatening clouds.  One gust in particular caused the summit flag to blow out of Tory's hands.  Lucky for us it didn't land too far away, but it was on top of some snow out in a steep gully.  I managed to fish it off the snow with a trekking pole without too much trouble.

Mark and Tory on the summit.

Summit.

Heading back to the false summit.


With the summit flag back in hand, we commenced standard summit duties.  8 down, 1 to go for Mark and Tory!  Time to head back to the false summit.  Pretty much from this point on, it was windy AF.  We estimated easily 30mph sustained, probably closer to 40 and gusting 50.  There were a few times that we had to hunker down for a minute.  I know I dang near got knocked off my feet a time or two.

Heading back to the false summit.

Summit ridge.




We kept pushing on with the intent of getting down out of the wind, but even back at the waterfall at approx. 2,000' below the summit the wind was still blowing strong and coming right up the canyon.

Just below the false summit.



The hike up Pete Creek might not have been "that bad" but going down was unanimously sucky and if anything, probably slower than the hike up.

The shimmer of the Jones' rig thought the trees was a welcome sight.  We immediately went into recovery mode to prepare for Mount Idaho.


Saturday, July 4, 2020

Mores Mountain and Shafer Butte

Date: July 4, 2020.

Partners: N/A.

Objectives: Mores Mountain and Shafer Butte.  Running at altitude and hopefully training for IMTUF.

Stats: 17 miles and 3,000ft of vert.  Strava.

Gear notes:  N/A.

For some reason, trying to "run" 100 miles sounds like "fun".  I missed the cutoff for official registration so I had to settle for a spot the wait list.  Hopefully I'll get in because I'm training and planning like it's going to happen.  I decided to break 2020 up into 3 three month training blocks, each with a different focus.  All the COVID nonsense was a bit of a stick in the spokes, but overall it hasn't been horrible.  One of my mantras for 2020 and IMTUF is; no whining, no excuses, no regrets.  So in keeping with that theme, my plan is to transition into big mountain runs and tagging peaks to train for IMTUF.  This is the first long run of this cycle.  My route basically followed the Around the Mountain Trail with side tours to the peaks.  Pictures below.





Summit register on Mores.

Summit register on Mores.

Summit of Mores.



This crow was pretty chill and didn't mind me talking with it while I took some pictures.

Summit of Shafer.

Summit of Shafer.