Mount Idaho. July 18, 2012.

Partners: Josh and Scout.

Stats: Approx 8 miles and 5,000ft gain to summit elevation 12,065ft. 8hr round trip.

Route: West ridge, class 2/3.

Links: Mount Idaho on Summitpost.

Mount Idaho from Hwy 93.

Mount Idaho is Idaho's seventh highest peak. Many climbers rank this as their most favorite peak of the 12'ers. It has an easy and shaded approach up Elkhorn Canyon to a fun class 2/3 ridge and finishes with a classic scree chute to the summit.

We started from a road at the mouth of Elkhorn Canyon and followed a decent trail into the trees. Elkhorn is not your typical Lost River Range canyon; it's relatively easy to work your way up.

Elkhorn Canyon.

At some point we turned left and hiked up a steep slope to reach the Towers area on the west ridge.

Approaching the Towers.

After the Towers there is a clear view of the rest of the route. Its a pleasant ridge walk until the base of the summit pyramid. Its scree from there to the summit.

Summit pyramid from the west ridge. 

Borah Peak.

Looking up the west ridge, past the Towers.

The main ridge never really feels more than class 2 and sticking to the spine is the way to go.

I took a picture of Josh taking a picture of Scout.

The saddle was a little windy. Note Scouts ears aloft in the wind.

Borah and Sacagawea.

The views of Borah and Sacagawea were as awesome as they were distracting.

Josh en route to the summit.

What parts of the route that could be considered class 3 were fun with very little exposure.

Summit pyramid. 

The summit appeared tantalizingly close but we were only a little more than half way up at this point.

Chute to the east of the summit.

From the base of the summit pyramid, its all about finding the correct chute. We actually went a bit to far to the right and topped out just east of the true summit.

Merriam Lake at the base of the north face.

It was a short, fun and slightly airy traverse to the top.

Looking west from the summit.

We topped out and had a nice long lunch while took in the views.

Close up of the Pio's.

Mount Corruption with Diamond Peak behind. 

Looking east from the summit.

Borah, again.

We were pretty sure we could make out some people moving up to the summit of Borah.

Summit Zzz's.

Maybe our summit lunch break had been just a tad too long. When I encapsulated our moment of glory, Josh was straight cold taking himself a nap.

West face from Elkhorn Canyon.

Yes, Josh was easily roused and soon we descended our peak. We used a dried up waterfall to descent higher up into the canyon than where we came out of it on the ascent.

Mount Idaho from Hwy 93. 

It became what is now the typical hot escape from the LRR. It was easily 40 degrees warmer on the valley floor than it was on the summit.

Jacqueline Peak. May 9, 2012.

Partners: N/A.

Stats: From Federal Gulch CG; approx 6 miles, 3,500ft to summit elevation 11,027ft and 6hr round trip. Route; south slope/south ridge. 50 degree snow climb.

Gear notes: Ice ax and crampons.

Links: Summitpost. Idahosummits trip report. Idaho Alpine Zone trip report. Idaho: A Climbing Guide.

A cold, clear morning.

I was looking for a spring snow climb with some elevation and I found Jacqueline Peak. This can also be done without snow and is rated class 3. The route can be shortened by driving farther up the East Fork Road with a high clearance vehicle, or riding a mountain bike from Federal Gulch campground. I spent the night at the campground and got an alpine start to get the best snow conditions.

Jacqueline Peak south slopes.

It was totally dark when I left on foot and my timing worked out well. I reached the base of the peak just as the sun was coming up.

Alpenglow.

I had to stop for a while to get some pictures of this beautiful alpenglow. It did take some time to get the best pictures, but it was worth totally it.

Grays Peak.

The route is very straight forward and it gains elevation quickly.

Looking down the south slopes.

This would be a great ski descent.

Looking west.

There are many peaks in this area that can be reached from the East Fork Road.

Looking up the south slope.

Climbing on snow was cruiser. Instead of dealing with the talus, it was an easy uphill hike.

Looking down. 

The upper part of the route I did was a mix of large talus, firm snow and a couple chutes that made for really fun climbing, both up and down.

Summit ridge.

I kept to the upper edge of the talus to avoid any cornices. Looking back on the ridge I could see that it was in fact corniced. I proceeded with caution below the snow.

Looking down the ridge.

Near the summit.

I would totally go back and do it as a class 3 climb. I bet the view would be better too since you could follow the spine of the ridge instead of being ten feet below it.

Johnstone Peak.

I got a great aerial view of Johnstone Peak.

Near the summit.

The ridge to the summit was funky with the cornices. I removed my crampons and stuck to the rock.

Cornice.

Whoa mama! Now that's a cornice!

Grays Peak from the summit.

There was enough of a snow cap/cornice on the top that I stopped at the edge of the rocks. GPS indicated my altitude was consistent with the summit elevation. I didn't find any markers or a register among the rock. I didn't dig or venture out onto the cornice.

McIntyre Peak.

Looking SE at a sea of peaks.

The summit was sunny and windless, but cold. I soaked in the views for a while before starting down. 

A few feet below the summit selfie.

A few feet below the summit, I had to stop and take that all important summit shot that I forgot on top.

Looking down.

The south slopes are wide open and many lines are possible.

Looking back up one of the chutes.

The snow was now noticeably softer, so that meant I had to get moving.

Long glissade.

For my descent, I went over to the more open slopes, east of the ridge. Down lower where the slopes were steep and had a clear run-out made for excellent seat glissading. Near the snowline was miserable post-hole hell into the brush.

Red = ascent. Yellow = descent.

There are many options for climbing this peak, including an approach from the north from Big Basin. A really neat option would be to traverse the ridge that connects to McIntyre Peak. That would get you two 11ers in one climb.

Walking back to the car.

The day had heated up and I wished I had packed some sorts for the hike back to the car.

Johnstone Peak

Johnstone Peak is a great early season hike in the Pioneer Mountains. It's prominence yields big views that will not disappoint.  

Objective: Johnstone Peak 9,949ft.

Date: April 12, 2012.

Partners: N/A.

Stats: Approx 9 mile round trip and 3,200ft gain to summit elevation 9,949.

Route: South Ridge, class 2.

Links: Johnstone Peak on Summitpost.org.

Gear notes: Snowshoes.

Johnstone from the road.

Johonstone Peak in the Pioneer Mountains makes for a great snowshoe trip and could be accessible when many other peaks are not. I left Boise at 04:30 and was able to drive to within about a half mile of where I intended to park on Hyndman Creek Road and started up the hillside to the south ridge.
The route is straight forward but not without steep slopes.

Johnstone Peak.

Johnstone Peak.

Cobb Peak.

The view of Cobb Peak was a real treat. It immediately jumped up to near the top of my list.

South Ridge.

The route is mostly visible to the summit, which is also neat.

Pioneer Trio.

False summit.

Wet slide.

Warm overnight temperatures were evident with wet slide activity noted on solar aspects.

Hyndman, Old Hyndman and Cobb.

About half way to the top, the Pioneer Trio comes into view.

More false summits.

There are a few false summits on the ridge.

Highpoint.

The snow had not froze down low, so post-holes were tiresome. Higher up, the snow was firm and in some places bullet proof. The final slope to the summit came into view and went without much trouble.

DBW and DBE.

Clouds rolled in and out, but didn't produce any precipitation.
The clouds broke to the north long enough to make out Devil's Bedstead West and DBE.

Summit.

Cornice failure.

After just enough time to get some pictures and eat, I got focused on the descent.
There was plenty of evidence to remind me that nature was in control. I decided to bypass the rest of the cornices on the way down.

Cobb.

On descent.

Skirting around most of my tracks from the way up added a little more distance, but I was okay with that.

Grays Peak.

Descent into Bear Gultch.

Pio's from the road.

Lower on the ridge the sun was out and the day was warm. Then I got to experience a real treat; post-holing up to my thighs with snowshoes on.  I dropped off the ridge and into Bear Gulch and eventually I made it back to the car. I was a little soggy from the deep wet snow and running water in the creek, but I was in one piece for the drive home with sore legs and a big smile.